The Sentinel of Stone
ACONCAGUA 2019
INTRODUCTION
Discover the expedition
ACONCAGUA 2019
A NEW BEGINNING
In 2018, I embarked on a new chapter, stepping out of academia after spending two years completing a post-doc at the University of St Andrews in Scotland. My work had turned into a routine office job, and I found myself yearning for the thrill of glaciers, expeditions, and high mountains. This led to the idea of organizing a trip to Aconcagua. I was seeking a challenge at high altitude without the technical concerns. Aconcagua, the "sentinel of stone" in Quechua Ackon Cahuak, is known as the "highest walk in the world." I reached out to my friend Anne, who had also earned her PhD in Svalbard, to join me. Anne got in touch with Dorotha, Dorotha contacted Inge, and suddenly my brother wanted to join, along with his friends. What started as a small team quickly turned into a group of 9 people—though 9 of the nicest, most enthusiastic individuals I know, promising a fun-filled trip. After months of preparation, we found ourselves in beautiful Mendoza, Argentina, ready to take on our biggest challenge yet.
Aconcagua offers various climbing routes, and we opted for one of the less technical ones—the 360-fake Polish glacier route, a 19-day adventure circling the mountain, ascending on the Polish glacier side, and descending the normal route. This allowed us to see more of the mountain, avoid the crowds, and experience a different ascent and descent. Of course, this choice came with its challenges; the route had fewer resources and medical assistance than the normal route, requiring us to reach camp 3 at 6000 m before returning to the normal base camp.
For our first time on the mountain, we decided to go with local guides from a company I won't mention—reasons to be revealed later. For the initial part of the trip, from the park entrance to base camp, we had one guide, mules, and carried our own food. From base camp onward, we utilized the company's services, with three guides organizing camps and food. On January 9, 2018, we left Mendoza to meet our first guide at Los Puquios, near Los Penitentes. The bus journey was surreal; the mountains loomed large, and the landscape looked dry as we delved into the heart of the adventure.
The first three days were a test. Our guide was eager to propel us from point A to B at lightning speed, ensuring we always reached camp super early. This provided plenty of time to rest, eat, and explore our surroundings. Allow me to introduce my friends: Anna Elina, Aurélie, Dorota, Niels, Inge, Jerem, Nathalie, and Mael!
BASE CAMP LIFE
Arriving at Plaza Argentina was a moment of pride for all of us. We were already at 4200 m, but the summit at 6962 m still lay ahead! The primary goal now was to rest, hydrate, eat, and rest some more—a task easier said than done. We had a checklist of things to tackle, starting with a mandatory medical examination to measure our blood oxygen saturation. The doctor had the authority to compel us to descend if our results weren't up to par. This added a bit of stress, and the prospect of giving up on the climb likely raised the blood pressure of some. Out of the nine of us, four had results below expectations, but thankfully the doctor granted them a second chance with another test two days later. Oxygen saturation is a critical metric at this altitude, with values below 80% indicating incomplete acclimatization. It varies from person to person, increasing the risk of acute mountain sickness during further ascents.
Equipment management was another task. We had to part with all the light and hot-weather gear, which would be transferred to the main base camp on the opposite side of the mountain. From this point on, we'd be responsible for carrying almost all our gear ourselves, with only the tents being transported by robust porters. We contemplated hiring additional porters, but the cost was a bit steep for us.
Base camp had a fantastic atmosphere. Showers, WiFi, and "real" toilets provided a touch of luxury. While others enjoyed these amenities, I was more inclined to explore the surroundings. Positioned on a debris-covered glacier with penitentes not too far away and climbable boulders, the base camp surroundings fascinated me. However, time flew as we were having fun, and soon it was time to embark on our rotations.
Rotations proved to be the optimal method for acclimatization, involving climbing high and sleeping low. We started by moving equipment and food to Camp 1 (around 5000 m) and immediately descended to sleep at base camp. After a rest day, we repeated the process, moving everything to Camp 1. The first rotation always presented its challenges, but the second one, as they say, was a walk in the park.
HIGH ALTITUDE CAMPS
The excitement was palpable as we geared up to conquer the higher camps. The path led us through narrow couloirs with the potential for rockfalls, prompting the use of helmets. We initially enjoyed decent weather, but it quickly took a turn for the worse, escalating into a full-blown storm. For many of us, it was the first time at 5000 m, not the ideal conditions to feel confident about acclimatization. We swiftly buried our equipment, hoping to recover it in a couple of days, and raced back down to base camp in record time.
The following day, our last full day at base camp, those who had initially failed the medical assessment gave it another shot—and all passed! It was a massive relief for everyone; no one wanted to face another three days of walking back to the park entrance alone. The day after, we finally moved to Camp 1, this time under much better conditions. We could finally see our path, appreciating the stunning, desolate landscape of Aconcagua. The camp, albeit small and densely packed, was surrounded by my favorite feature—penitentes. We were ecstatic to have made it there.
Yet, there's no time to linger on Aconcagua. The next day, we commenced our rotation to Camp 2, transporting as much gear as possible. Camp 2 sits at 5500 m—not significantly higher, but at this altitude, every additional meter is a challenge. The initial stretch was a bit steep, followed by a long traverse to a small platform where Camp 2 was nestled. The walk was breathtaking; above the clouds, it felt like we were in paradise.